Napa Valley via San Francisco, Coast Starlight train to Portland
The fog comes
on little feet.
It sits looking
over harbor and city
on silent haunches
and then moves on.
-- Carl Sandburg
I can't think of a better way to do a first-time visit to Napa Valley than to sandwich it between my two favourite cities on the West Coast, San Francisco and Portland. If Napa turns out to be the tourist trap bust I suspect it might be, I've got reassuring bookends to make it all worthwhile.
My wife and I would begin in San Francisco, shacked up at the Chancellor Hotel near Union Square, which, by the way, is a great bargain if you like centrally located classic, vintage hotels. I've been making sporadic pilgrimages to SF since about 1990 and I never get tired of the city, always discover something new. My favourite activity when visiting is exploring the city on foot; SF is, for my money, the best walking city in the world. The hilly, end-of-peninsula geography provides one great hilltop vista after another in a bay setting that is unrivalled. The character neighbourhoods and Victorian architecture make even the less interesting reaches of town interesting. The landmarks, from the fog-enveloped Golden Gate Bridge to Coit Tower, from City Lights Books to the majestic Castro Theater, capped with a sunset martini from the Top of the Mark... the list of iconic places in this city goes on and on. I'm also of the opinion that the sprawling Golden Gate Park is the world's greatest inner city park. One could spend days exploring and getting lost in this park's botanical gardens, museums and pathways.
Before I mention some food highlights, I will boast about our scoring tickets to see Elvis Costello at the historic Warfield Theater, which was, of course, sensational. This guy is a true performer, and how he managed to successfully incorporate carnival side show elements into his performance, I'll never know, but it worked. Also got a chance to see two Cy Young winners (Lincecum vs Halladay) duel it out at AT&T Park. I took in an opening day Giants game about 20 years ago at Candlestick Park, and missed that old stadium ambience this time around. All the new ball parks these days seem less like homages to baseball and more like homages to corporate branding. Sitting in these new parks feels a bit like being in a TV commercial.
Tadich Grill
240 California St, San Francisco, CA
tadichgrill.com
Tadich's Seafood Cioppino is the best I've ever had, exquisite broth. This establishment lives up to its storied reputation as the city's most historic restaurant. Older, experienced servers donning spotless white coats and ties not only add to the classy, historic ambience, but this detail underscores a high level of professionalism that is increasingly a rarity in the fine dining scene. I generally avoid eateries that refuse to take reservations at night, but Tadich is worthy of the wait, which you can reduce if you are prepared to sit at the bar. Tadich Grill is arguably among the best seafood restaurants on the entire West Coast.
For other places I visited in SF, check them out here.
On to Napa Valley
It is time to get drunk! So as not to be the martyred slaves of Time, get drunk; get drunk without stopping! On wine, on poetry, or on virtue, as you wish. --Charles Baudelaire
Take out the poetry and virtue part of Baudelaire's celebration of wine, and you have the Napa wine tasting circuit. The fact it's virtually impossible to access this region without a car seems almost a cruel irony.
Yes, a rental car from SF is a must if you expect to have any mobility and freedom touring this region, although I suppose a day trip via guided tour does at least save you the worry of getting busted for impaired driving. We approached the valley via the 101, across the Golden Gate Bridge, which is much more scenic and interesting than the route we took back via Oakland and the Bay Bridge. Whatever my opinion of the Napa wine trail, it must be said that this is a gorgeous region and a pleasure to drive through. It's not hard to see why vintners and farmers settled here over the past century. Not only geographic beauty, the region boasts ideal climatic and soil conditions (terroir) for wine. If you saw the film Bottle Shock, or if you know your wine history, you'll know that both red and white wines from this region stunned the French wine establishment in the mid-70s when they won a blind tasting competition in Paris. Napa wines would go on to win several more such competitions, securing California’s rightful place on the world wine map, much to annoyance of France's wine elite. This historical event not only annoyed the world's wine establishment, but it really did pave the way for other regions (like our own Okanagan, Australia, Chile, etc...) to jump on the wine wagon, realizing that terroir, not snooty Paris wine critics, was really all a region needed to produce great wine. The rest, as they say, is history.
Our first tasting in Napa was at the famous Stags' Leap, which left a bit of a bad taste in my mouth and would come to represent much of what I dislike about the region. The first shock was learning that a simple tasting would cost us 30 bucks! For a tasting! I don't recall paying anything more than 5 or 10 bucks in the Okanagan; many of the tastings there, I recall, were free. I don't care how great and prestigious a winery thinks its wines are, $30 for a tasting is akin to highway robbery. During the tasting we were given the hard sell on books and videos. It turns out this winery had been bought out by some Asian mega-conglomerate, the once family-owned estate preserved only in name, brand, and to some extent the wine. Thus, not a surprise, in hindsight, that the experience here had all the manifestations of a well oiled corporate marketing enterprise. I'm sure they do really well with the bus tours.
The corporate takeover of vineyards in the valley is no secret (think Mission Hill near Kelowna, but on a much bigger scale). Much has been written and said on the topic. However, it's important to note that Napa Valley is a vast region with hundreds of vineyards, a share of them still small, family estates making top shelf wine. It was at these types of places where we had the most fun and rarely paid more than $10 for a liberal tasting session. It was also at these places where the people exhibited more salt-of-earth character, where we ended up having great conversations about wine, food and life in the valley. Summers Estate Wines and Lava Vine, both at the north end of the valley, are a couple of these more earthy places that deserve mention.
We stayed a couple of nights at a hot spring spa resort (Roman Spa Resort) in Calistoga, which was exactly what the doctor ordered. Laid back oasis with great hot spring pools that use minimal amounts of chlorine, close to the centre of town, lots of great eating options within a couple blocks. Situated at the north end of the valley, Calistoga has a much more relaxed, bohemian vibe than the uber-snooty, trendy, expensive Napa town in the south.
Morimoto Napa
610 Main Street, Napa, CA
morimotonapa.com
Emperor Morimoto has no clothes! There, I said it. Simply put, this celebrity chef-owned eatery is overpriced, the food far overrated by critics and foodies whose judgement seems to have been impaired by Food Network indoctrination, culinary fusion fads and fame worship. The sushi we ate here was standard issue, and Morimoto's interpretation of "ramen" takes a perfectly good Japanese classic and turns it into something resembling a small portion of Vietnamese pho, minus the goodness that usually defines pho. The neo-Zen design of the place is interesting upon initial approach, but quickly becomes pretentious. Make no mistake, what customers are paying for here, whether they admit it or not, is a celebrity brand and bragging rights, to boast to those back home that "I ate at a place owned and named after a real Iron Chef!" I say save your cash for the Napa wine tastings, or seek out better, local culinary creations at half the price at any number of places in the Valley.
For other places I visited in Napa and Calistoga, go here.
Coast Starlight to Portland
Rather than returning to SF and flying back home from there, we opted to take the night Amtrak train from SF to Portland, in sleeper car of course! The train leaves SF at about 10pm, and arrives in Portland the next afternoon. I've had the pleasure to take this train from Seattle to SF once before, so it was nice to experience a return vantage.
Portland remains a favoured destination for us. Just love this town, its progressive transportation infrastructure, its humane, pragmatic approach to the homelessness question, its fantastic food scene, its amazing microbrewery scene and its lifestyle. I've written before about Portland. Here is a highlight discovered on this recent trip:
Pok Pok
3226 SE Division St, Portland, OR
pokpokpdx.com
Not only some of the best Southeast Asian food I've ever eaten, but possibly among the best food I've ever eaten. And I say this as a guy who lived in Asia for 4 years and has travelled extensively through the region. The spicy chicken wings are, without equivocation, the best wings I've ever eaten. The boar dish served with sticky rice and fresh, crisp greens, gives new, exciting meaning to wild pig, a meat I'd eaten many times while living in Japan but never much liked up until Pok Pok. The eggplant salad, another winner. Even the table water served here has a hint of some mysterious Asian herb, adding to the overall experience. My only regret was having to leave without trying a few other menu items. Pok Pok is in an unassuming part of Portland that won't lure the average tourist, but this tourist declares it is every bit worth the effort getting there. Huge thumbs up tp Pok Pok!
See above links to my YRS Urbanspoon to see other Portland highlights.
On the future of YRS blog
I never like to say never, so as for future local food reviews on this blog, I'll keep the door slightly ajar for now.
I have been continuing to review local places, but in short, mobile posts directly to the Urbanspoon reviews sections for eateries. Not sure I care much anymore about linking my reviews via YRS blog to Urbanspoon blog sections. Frankly, I think more people read the reviews posted directly to the site, not the blog posts linked to the site. So if you want to see what I've been saying about local and other restaurants of late, go to Urbanspoon and look for YRS reviews. Recent local reviews:
The Clay Pigeon Restaurant, Victoria, BC
Where's the beef? My "Knuckle Sandwich" left me wondering, where's the beef? The very tiny, thin segment of baguette contained but a sparse few cubes of beef and some greens. I could have eaten the entire thing in a single bite. At $9, I find this sandwich exorbitantly priced (it will cost you an extra $4-to-6 to add soup, salad or chips). Moreover, since this sandwich is an interpretation of the classic beef dip, would be good if they lightly toasted the bread so that it doesn't dissolve into mush when dipping it into the au jus. Having said all this, the sandwich ingredients were fresh, tasty, more than edible, but far from transcendent. My tiny cup of $4 onion soup was disappointingly cool, leaving the impression of microwaved canned soup. The service was a bit too nonchalant, approaching unfriendly, which is shocking considering they just opened up. It's a nice, cozy, minimalist space with a good selection of beer, wine & drinks. But in the end the small portions make this place feel like more of an overpriced tapas bar than a bistro of real substance.
Other local eateries I`ve reviewed in the last couple months: Canoe Brewpub (bad experience), King Sejong (like it), Futaba (another sushi pretender) and Kuma Noodle (okay Japanese ramen).
Best regards to you all,
YRS